I am especially excited to share this week’s new recipe with you. This cake has exceeded all of my expectations for what a cake should be–it’s incredibly light, has a silky smooth mouthfeel with a slight crunch from the blackberries, and has an outstanding combination of flavors. When I first tried the cake, I had a definitive ratatouille moment, where shapes and colors whiz through your mind as you experience the layers of flavor. This cake instantaneously sparks joy. It’s comforting, yet tastes fresh and zippy. Each component comes together to create a symphony of flavors that is far better than any individual part.
As with most of my recipes, this cake was inspired by a wonderful sale on blackberries at my local market. I wanted to pair the slightly tart flavor of blackberries with some earthier notes to add depth and create a base on which the blackberries could shine. I started with an olive oil thyme cake base–both olive oil and thyme bring a brightness and a subtle earthiness, and also add some savory character to prevent the cake from entering “too sweet” territory. The cake is a light and airy chiffon, and making the cake with oil ensures that it stays moist for days–the cake base I used is adapted from Natasha Pickowicz, the true queen of cakes.
I next added a thick, pillowy layer of whipped cream, which mellows out the zippiness of both the blackberries and the thyme and creates a fluffy and luxurious mouthfeel. Mascarpone is whipped together with the cream to add body to the whipped cream and ensure it remained stable for several days, without losing too much of its volume or texture. Tahini was also added to this mix, lending its nuttiness and tying together the earthy theme.
Lastly, the crown jewel on top is the blackberry compote. Blackberries are mixed with a bit of honey, pinch of cinnamon, and cornstarch and cooked for a few minutes on the stovetop until they start to break down. This compote adds a dramatic color to the off-white tahini whipped cream canvas and a delicious juiciness that ties together and livens up the entire cake.
While this cake does contain a few components, it’s really not too fussy to make. We’re going for a single layer here–skipping the work of cutting layers and spending a lot of time on assembly–and piling it high with the cloudlike whipped cream topping and spooning compote on top. Each component is relatively quick to make and you can make the blackberry compote in advance. I truly could not believe how phenomenal this cake turned out–I hope you’ll find that it sparks instant joy for you as well.
Thyme cake with tahini whip and blackberry compote
Course: Cakes and custardsDifficulty: Baking session1
8-inch cake90
minutes25
minutesThis cake recipe is nothing short of outstanding. The lemon thyme cake is subtly earthy and bright and is topped with a generous pillow of tahini whipped cream and a tart-sweet fresh blackberry compote. The bold flavors and juiciness of the blackberries are perfectly balanced by the nutty and creamy tahini topping, and the cake adds body and a wonderfully bright backdrop of flavor. It is impossible to try a bite without going back in for another.
Ingredients
- For the compote
12 oz (2 boxes) fresh blackberries
3 Tbsp honey
1 tsp lemon juice
1/8 tsp cinnamon
pinch of salt
2 tsp cornstarch
- For the chiffon cake
3 large eggs, separated
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup water
zest of one lemon
1 1/2 Tbsp finely chopped thyme leaves
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar, divided
3/4 cup (95g) cake flour or all-purpose flour
2 tsp baking powder
scant 1/2 tsp kosher salt
- For the cake soak
1/4 cup milk
5 thyme sprigs
1/8 tsp vanilla extract
- Tahini whipped cream
1/4 cup tahini
4 oz mascarpone
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1/4 cup (28g) confectioners’ sugar
Instructions
- Make the compote
- Place blackberries, honey, lemon juice, salt and cinnamon in a saucepan over medium low heat. Bring to a simmer, while stirring occassionally and allow to simmer for about 10 minutes. The blackberries should release much of their liquid and start softening. Press some of the blackberries against the pot with the back of the spoon to smoosh them so you have a mix of whole blackberries and smooshed blackberries.
- Stir together 2 tsp of cornstarch with 2 tsp of water and add to the pot. Continue cooking for another minute or two until the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat, let cool and refrigerate overnight or until fully chilled. The compote will continue to thicken as it cools.
- Make the cake
- Preheat the oven to 350F. In a medium bowl, add the egg yolks, water, olive oil, lemon zest, and thyme. Then whisk in 3/4 cup (150g) of the granulated sugar until the mixture is smooth.
- In a separate large bowl, add the flour, baking powder, and salt and whisk until combined. Make a well in the center and pour in the egg yolk mixture, stirring until just combined and no streaks of flour are visible.
- Using the clean bowl of a stand mixer or a large mixing bowl and hand mixer, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed until they have increased in volume and the mixture has transformed from bubbly to an opaque white color (2-3 minutes). Then, gradually add in the remaining 1/3 cup (67g) of sugar while continuing to mix on medium speed. Continue beating until the mixture is glossy, and when you lift the beater up, they form peaks that are stiff at the base and slightly floppy at the top.
- Scrape one-third of the beaten egg whites into the yolk and flour mixture and gently fold with a spatula to incorporate. Then add the remaining beaten egg whites and gently fold until fully incorporated. The mixture should look relatively uniform and still be fluffy and voluminous. Line the bottom of an 8-inch cake pan with parchment paper, cut to fit the bottom. Grease the sides of the pan with butter. Then pour the cake mixture into the pan and give the pan a little shake to evenly spread the batter.
- Bake for approximately 25 minutes or until the edges are a light golden color, the center springs back to the touch, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool completely.
- Make the cake soak
- In a small saucepan, add the milk and full sprigs of thyme. Bring the milk to a slight simmer, then remove from the heat and let steep for 20 minutes. Strain out the thyme leaves, pressing down on them with the back of a spoon to release the rest of the milk. Stir in the vanilla and place in the fridge until ready to use.
- Make the tahini whipped cream
- Add the mascarpone to a medium or large mixing bowl and beat on low speed briefly to break up the block. Then add the tahini, cream, and powdered sugar. Beat on low speed at first to incorporate and then increase to medium until the mixture is light and fluffy and you have achieved soft peaks. The whipped cream should still have some softness but if it looks runny and like it wouldn’t stand up on its own, you need to continue beating for a bit longer.
- Assemble
- Invert the cake onto a serving cake. Brush the milk soak on top just to evenly moisten the cake. You won’t need to use all of the milk soak.
- Using a spatula, add the whipped cream on top and lightly smooth it out, ensuring it covers the entire surface of the cake. The amount of whipped cream should be generous so don’t be hesitant to pile it high on top.
- Pour the blackberry compote over the center of the cake, allowing it to naturally spread towards the edges. Use your judgment about whether you’d like to use all of the compote or not. If it looks like it’s too much and will spill over, you can reserve some compote to have over yogurt or with pancakes later in the week. Refrigerate the assembled cake for at least one hour before serving, to allow the whipped cream to set. The cake is best served the same day that it’s assembled although will remain delicious for several days in the fridge–the whipped cream will gradually become slightly less fluffy over time.
Notes
- Make ahead: The milk soak and compote can be made several days in advance and stored in the fridge. The cake can be made a day or two in advance and left in the cake pan, covered tightly in plastic, refrigerated.
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